Travel
Night markets are where Taiwan comes to eat. As the sun goes down, quiet streets fill with neon signs, sizzling griddles and long lines of people deciding what to try next. The best way to visit is hungry, with a friend or two, so you can share everything.
Where to go
- Shilin, Taipei. The biggest and best known market in the capital, busy every night of the week.
- Raohe Street, Taipei. A long, single street that is easy to walk end to end, famous for pepper buns at its entrance.
- Ningxia, Taipei. Compact and focused on food, a favorite for classic local dishes.
- Fengjia, Taichung. Huge, inventive and full of students trying the newest snacks.
- Liuhe, Kaohsiung. A long-running market in the south, with plenty of seafood.
What to order
- Pepper buns. Pork and green onion with lots of black pepper, baked on the walls of a hot clay oven. Eat them carefully; the filling is very hot.
- Oyster omelet. Small oysters, egg and greens set in a chewy sweet potato starch batter and topped with a sweet and savory sauce.
- Gua bao. A soft folded bun with braised pork belly, pickled mustard greens, crushed peanuts and cilantro.
- Braised pork rice. Finely chopped pork belly simmered in soy sauce and spices and spooned over rice. Simple and deeply comforting.
- Stinky tofu. Fermented tofu, often deep fried and served with pickled cabbage. The smell is strong; the taste is milder than you expect.
- Fried chicken cutlet. A huge, thin, crisp piece of chicken seasoned with pepper and spices.
- Bubble tea. Milk tea with chewy tapioca pearls, invented in Taiwan and still best there.
- Shaved ice. Fine, fluffy ice piled high with fruit, condensed milk or sweet beans, the perfect end to the night.
How to do it well
- Go early or late. Lines are shortest just after opening and close to closing time.
- Share portions. Order one of everything and pass it around so you have room for more stops.
- Carry cash. Many stalls are cash only, and small bills make it faster.
- Follow the line. A long line of locals is usually the most reliable review you will find.
- Bring tissues and wet wipes. Napkins are not always easy to find.
Come back on a different night and you will find a different set of stalls. That is the point: there is always one more thing to try.
